From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Arsenalsgatan 1, 111 48 Stockholm
- Phone: +46 8 611 78 74
- Web: wedholmsfisk.se
- Seats: 66
- Opening Hours: Mon 11.30 AM-2 PM, 6 PM-11 PM, Tue-Fri 11.30 AM-11 PM, Sat 5 PM-11 PM. Closed Christmas-New Years and July for lunch
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
It’s all in the sauce
Fish of the handsomest kind? Certainly, but more importantly, Wedholms takes you on a magnificent journey through time, back to the mid 1980s. Remarkably little has changed at the restaurant that was Bengt Wedholm’s crowning achievement. The impressive piece of grilled turbot has almost the same girth, elasticity and juiciness, and the hollandaise that accompanies it has the same delicate acidity, curbed by the sweetness of the shallots. Was it better back then? In maritime gastronomy, yes. Nothing, nothing at all, can beat the sole meunière (SEK 495) served here, perfect in its naked caramel butteriness with only a lemon wedge and some boiled potatoes. And then again, no. Back then no one cared about the origin, the fishing methods or the vitality of stocks. In this regard, Wedholms is an anachronism. Currently zander from Lake Hjalmaren is MSC-certified, but that is probably not something the guests here are interested in. It’s enough to know that it comes poached, with the incomparable caramelly champagne sauce. This sauce alone is one of the strongest reasons to pay a visit and you can get it with almost anything. If you can’t choose, get the fricassee of lobster, sole, turbot and scallops, but be prepared to pay SEK 675 – even at lunch. But for a few hundred kronor you can get the same sauce with salmon or scallops. Many of the diners here have been in faithful attendance since it opened. They are affluent, with a touch of eccentricity that can electrify the dining room. The fantastic service staff also have this affect. Most are women of a mature age who engender a feeling of security, calm and warmth – creating an altogether unique atmosphere. Knowledge is served with a twinkle in the eye and batting of lashes, as in the reply: “This Burgundy shares a little soil with Montrachet, a damn good wine at a rock-bottom price”...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.