From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Supeluse 26, Pärnu
- Phone: +372 6972 500
- Web: www.wesset.ee
- Seats: 120
The sweet taste of resurrection
Villa Wesset was once a private home, occupied by the owner of Progress, a confectionary factory established at the beginning of the 20th century. The solid brick building underwent massive renovations ten years ago when it was turned into a hotel, its spacious terrace a beacon of sorts that can almost be spotted from the other side of Pärnu. Progress is a spot-on word to describe the food currently served in the hotel’s restaurant. Young Chef Mart Kukk has found a fresh and surprising approach to reinventing traditional Estonian dishes, picking them apart and piecing them back together in ingenious ways. The trusty staple of pea soup is here called Smoked Rib and Pea, it’s disassembled into single ingredients, and presented with some new and surprising details. Tableside, the smoked rib broth is joined by semi-dried tomato and peanuts, making for an entirely new mélange. The classic pork with sauerkraut has also undergone some changes, morphing into a novelty with slow-cooked ribs, pickled cabbage, corn and wine sauce. There is only a soupçon of the old there to give you a hint of where the chef found his ideas. Villa Wesset’s restaurant gives you a glimpse of where new Estonian cuisine is going. The Progress confectionary was nationalized in the 1940s and subsequently fell into oblivion, Chef Kukk is bringing back its sweet legacy with panache...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.