From the White Guide Nordic 2018:


Very Fine Level 75
Food rating:30/40Service rating:15/20
BarChambre separéeBar menuTables outside
  • Address: Studiestræde 69, 1554 Copenhagen
  • Phone: +45 70 99 91 11
  • Web:
  • Seats: 80
  • Opening Hours: Sun-Thu 5:30 PM-12 midnight, Fri-Sat 5:30 PM-01 AM

Strictly unruly

The “U” dances above “formel” in the logo, reflecting the connotative U-turn from “formal” to “informal” in Danish. The dancing letter may also reflect the central role of musicality in formel B’s precocious sister establishment. Such tactful and carefully choreographed sensory indulgence is rarely seen in this price class, invitingly and seductively executed to the smallest detail in this cosy cave bedecked with heavy curtains, sparkling golden facades, dark velvet and glowing lamps. The waiters exude attentiveness and a desire to serve. You are the centre of the universe. The tempo is fast-paced, but this suits the overall atmosphere, as does the music. Our first course of four arrives from the “An informal experience” menu, which naturally offers choices ranging from oysters to pork rinds and other whimsical snacks. In the first dish we expect the lobster to be overpowered by the highly acidic tomato vinaigrette, but it proves to be the perfect contrast to the wild flavour of the fresh, red-white meat. Dill is given the opportunity to stand out here with its deep green colour and intense aromatic flavour. The ice-cold thin slab of frozen crème fraîche with ramsons releases its fat as it melts on the palate, elevating the dish’s acidity. There is also crunch and deep umami from dried strips of kelp. It’s truly liberating when culinary techniques are presented in such an understated and mature way, without showing off. The same can be said of the wines, which are presented with great passion and typically stem from close partnerships with the natural winemakers themselves. We enjoy a classic Loire in our glasses: a chenin blanc from Agnès & René Mosse, which starts with intensely sweet yellow fruits then, as it opens, has nutty notes that tame the many coy flavours of the lobster dish. The city’s unruly culinary pulse is beating strong at Studiestræde 68...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

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