From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
The Restaurant by Kroun (Kurhotel Skodsborg)
- Address: Skodsborg Strandvej 139, 2942 Skodsborg
- Phone: +45 27 90 28 64
- Web: skodsborg.dk
- Seats: 40
Neoclassical culinary magic from Kroun
For more than 100 years, the crisp white palace in Skodsborg by the sea has housed a wellness centre for the upper class and delicate artistic souls seeking to uplift their wellbeing. With last year’s opening of a new gourmet restaurant named after Head Chef Erik Kroun, the spa hotel’s proud traditions have undergone a striking gastronomic overhaul. We sense this immediately as we tread inside on the soft carpet of the elegantly decorated pavilion with just seven tables and a fabulous view over the waters of Øresund. We are escorted to our seats by the evening’s competent waiter duo, headed by Restaurant Manager Martin Troelsen, who provides superb service – equal parts responsive, knowledgeable and highly attentive. The evening opens with Billecart-Salmon bubbling on our palates, and the Bee Gees in our ears, as we admire the magnificent wooden chandeliers hovering high above our heads. We choose the full menu, whose tongue-in-cheek Danish name is akin to “full blast”. First comes the obligatory salvo of starters. The last one, an onion soup that is to die for, has so much umami and intense poultry flavour that it almost runs circles around the first course, a small and round beauty in New Nordic robes: cured pollock topped with crisp slices of black radish and small dabs of lemon and dill on top. The lemon encroaches on the delicate richness of the fish, amplifying the taste of the sea. A little sprinkling of toasted oats adds complexity with delicious dry firmness, while a young, flinty chablis perfectly flanks the dish’s discrete notes with citrus aroma and succulent acidity. A truly elegant opening. Kroun’s tribute to Danish classics – a theme throughout the evening – continues with the next dish. A freshly caught female lumpfish arrives at the table, opened wide to reveal the year’s first mild, saltwatery lumpfish roe, arranged directly from the fish onto potato blinis with homemade crème fraîche, chopped red onion and chives: an ode to simplicity and sublime ingredients. White Burgundy from Leflaive is just about to out-manoeuvre the taste of the delicate roe, but the butter-fried blini grabs hold of the wine’s buttery notes at the last moment, saving the day for a perfect landing. The quality of the wine pairing menu with the food is outstanding throughout the evening, so we decide to stick with the pairings rather than venturing on our own through the otherwise extensive and impressive wine list. Another example is a mineral Chassange-Montrachet with smoked butter in the nose, served with a smoked scallop in beurre blanc with Baerii caviar: a perfect pairing with yet another creamy and refined dish, accentuating Kroun’s seasonal hotel cuisine as one of Greater Copenhagen’s leading culinary comfort zones. It’s cuisine that never goes against the grain, liberated from technical grandstanding and strict dogma; in almost Italian-like fashion, it pays homage to simplicity and delicious flavour with sublime ingredients, while delivering with great precision. The Restaurant By Kroun is not overwhelmingly avant-garde, but it is top-class neoclassical retro fare...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.