From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Tulegatan 24, 113 53 Stockholm
- Phone: +46 (0)8 612 65 50
- Web: www.svartengrens.se
- Seats: 60
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 5 PM-01 AM
For conscientious carnivores
“What strength would you like?” the waiter asks, when we have trouble reading the menu and wonder if they have some reading glasses we can borrow. This says something about the level of service at Svartengrens, where a remarkably well recruited and warm staff unpretentiously and safely pilot you through dinner. When the waiter explains that the flap steak on the cow sits next to the slightly drier flank – and that the tres major sits above the flatiron steak, in front of the ribs, and has a bit of the same character as filet mignon – he does so with his whole body, as if in a dance. It is precisely these different cuts that are the draw at one of the city’s hottest destinations for carnivores. All of the meat comes from small producers close by, often in the Stockholm archipelago. In the restaurant’s basement it is tenderized, smoked and cured. Then it is served with the sophistication that only really good meat can be, naked and alone on the plate, with optional condiments on the side. “Onions, Onions, Onions” is one of the better options, with memorable crispy panko-fried rings. The starters take longer to prepare, like a flower of rolled slices of dry-aged roast beef and coppa standing on end, surrounded by sugar-salted cranberries, thin mushroom slices, and bone marrow butter. Sublime. If you did not have time for a cocktail in the bar before dinner, treat yourself to one with dessert, like the little gem straightforwardly described as “sugar peas, champagne and vermouth”. The venue is often crowded, the customers young and savvy, the wall art liberal and impressive, and the atmosphere is always as high-pitched as the music streaming forth from the speakers...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.