From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Pakkerivej 2, 8000 Aarhus
- Phone: +45 86 18 64 00
- Web: brødrenekoch.dk
- Seats: 30
- Opening Hours: Wed-Sat 6 PM-12 midnight, Closed Sun-Tue
The two remaining musketeers from the Koch empire, Lasse and Michael Koch, haven’t slowed down in the slightest since Jesper Koch went solo with his own projects. Their style remains free of dogma and full of intense flavour, as epitomised by the snacks that begins our meal. Spicy minced pig snout with pickled chilli and tarragon mayo, and a cone filled with aubergine purée, kumquats and braised pig udder are among the first treats. These rather unconventional cuts push us to the limits of our comfort zone, but the familiar flavour of pork quickly makes us feel at ease in the complex culinary world of the Koch brothers. The opening course is like a first rite of spring, with small green shoots of fresh herbs topping an arrangement of cod carpaccio. The thinly sliced cod is beautifully marbled with a gelée of langoustine stock, adding extra depth to the flavour of the fish. A creamy sorbet of champagne and the citrusy freshness of grapefruit and lime complete the dish by ensuring a harmonic balance between the sweet and acidic. In our glasses is a fruity and floral sauvignon blanc with faint grapefruit notes – a good pairing with the early spring dish. Outside the restaurant ships gently bob in the marina; inside, we are serenaded by the crackling fireplace that helps to ensure a relaxing atmosphere in the otherwise neutral decor of the restaurant. The intensity of flavours gradually builds with each subsequent course. Aromatic vapours from a halibut fill our noses from the moment the burning hot plate hits our table. Thin slices of avocado, walnut confit, fresh greens and herbs are layered over the fish – while a healthy portion of oyster tartare lies hidden under the greens to uphold sea-freshness. All of this is topped tableside with hot melted duck fat, which is both surprising and a bit odd, but ultimately the dish is a rich success. As is characteristic of the brothers’ cuisine, it is an intense bombardment of complex flavours that nonetheless results in a well-composed and complete serving. It takes deep professional insight to convey the mad genius of the kitchen, but the service staff presents every detail flawlessly and the wines are accompanied by intriguing and descriptive narratives. With an almost Burgundian character of butter notes and richness, the wine Guru from the Douro Valley escorts a dish containing a scallop marinated in barbeque sauce topped with puffed pork rind. A bold sauce of grilled carrots accompanies the dish, together with a carrot pickled in cumin and orange, which adds intense acidity, a bit of sweetness and spiced notes. As always, creativity is paramount in the Koch kitchen, and their style is without compare. It is free of dogma, boasts an abundance of ostentatious elements from near and far, and never loses sight of absolute delectability as the common thread...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.