From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
Mielcke & Hurtigkarl
- Address: Frederiksberg Runddel 1, 2000 Frederiksberg C
- Phone: +45 38 34 84 36
- Web: mhcph.com
- Seats: 35
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 6 PM-02 AM, Closed Mon-Sun
Soft lighting shines through the antique windows of a seventeenth century building in one corner of Frederiksberg Gardens. Torches and small portable fire pits outside Mielcke & Hurtigkarl light up the evening while inside an impressive LED lighting installation hangs side by side with classic crystal chandeliers from the ceiling. The walls of the dining room are studded with works of art, big and small, and visitors to the restrooms are serenaded with the sounds of lapping waves and fluttering butterflies. Many of the historic building’s fine details have been left untouched, and a live tree in the middle of the room is like an extension of nature from the surrounding gardens. The decor itself reflects dedication to the magic of details, something that becomes even clearer as the “Metamorphosis” menu’s many small dishes begin to arrive at our table. Chef Jakob Mielcke’s culinary style is eclectic and wide-ranging, and the menu takes us on a journey to all corners of the world. A deconstruction of Thai tom yum soup with icy coconut milk snow and shrimp tastes familiar, but the texture is totally different. Airy ravioli filled with a spicy 'nduja sausage is a wonderful Italian mouthful, and lumpfish roe with lemon and browned butter in a crisp cone of caramelised milk skin is a tasty tribute to Danish spring. The fare also attests to a kitchen in full command of its craft, with the simplicity and precision reminiscent of Japanese traditions. The kitchen’s storytelling art peaks with two dried “cold cuts” of duck: one from teal and one from a wild duck shot by the chef himself. These two understated bites are a liberating interlude in the evening’s cascade of impressions. The selection of drinks is enticing, with a relatively small but interesting wine list and well-composed pairings that, like the food, offer both adventurous and familiar experiences. For example, a wonderful dish of al dente fried Jerusalem artichoke with an umami-rich sauce of anchovy and egg yolk with pistachio dust is accompanied by a boisterous glass of Beaujolais blanc with slightly oxidized notes, while a serving of pigeon comes with a classic Barolo. The pigeon is roasted pink, garnished with lollo rosso lettuce and served on a bed of shaved truffle and French chanterelles, with a sauce of sherry and morels – a perfect dish that becomes all the more spectacular with the fungal earthy notes of the elegant Barolo. We substitute some of the wine pairings with alcohol-free homebrewed kombucha, a decision we do not end up regretting. It is a revelation to experience an amazing rooibos tea kombucha, whose distinct fragrance matches a dish of turbot, nestled under beetroot wafers and topped with a bright red sauce, fermented blackcurrants and lardo. Chef Mielcke and Sommelier José Santos are not in the restaurant this evening, but both the service and the kitchen perform without a hitch. Restaurant Manager Thomas Amir Korby and his staff exude the expertise, calm, knowledge and professionalism it takes to make a dining experience complete. Combined with one of Denmark’s most eclectic yet accomplished kitchens, the resulting experience is original, distinctive and flawless...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.