From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Kräklingbo, 623 70 Katthammarsvik
- Phone: +46 498 530 62
- Web: krakas.se
- Seats: 24
- Opening Hours: Visit website for opening hours
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
An orgy of flavours
If you turn off at the bend in Kräklingbo, just around the corner and opposite the church you’ll find Gotland’s best restaurant. As well as Gotland’s best alcoholic beverages. Ulrika Karlsson is the sun that Krakas Krog spins around and in addition to brilliant service and a dazzling smile she offers red-hot gastronomy. After more than a decade at Krakas she seems more energised than ever. There have been a few years of slightly restrained cooking, but now Krakas is once again springing to the front and running in the same heat with the other leaders in green gastronomy. This is evident even in Ulrika’s entertaining commentaries about the dishes: Krakas is more confident, more personal, more daring than ever. The featherweight, chlorophyll flavours have a bit more complexity now, accompanied by deftly portioned amounts of proteins from the sea and pasture. A dish like baked beet with lamb liver, yarrow and blueberry butter is flat-out ingenious, yes, even sexual – a word never before associated with Krakas. When the liver, marinated in its own fat, meets the blueberries, it revives something wild from deep inside, to which the beet adds its earthy sweetness. The matching 2013 La Guindalera Viña Almate tempranillo is perfectly at home with this orgy of flavours. Ulrika is a sommelier of the highest rank and her pairings often make the already delightful dishes even more praiseworthy. The steamed beans are nice, in mint and herb salt with cream of dried peas and fresh garlic, but they take flight in the company of a carefully selected Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc from 2014. Then Ulrika gets a feeling and she pulls out a Chassange-Montrachet 2011 that does not belong to the wine pairings, just because she can’t help herself and she loves wine and loves Burgundy and because she has never been as on fire as she is now and she knows it. The delightful beverage buttresses the roasted cauliflower and the juniper-cured cod with its grated roe, its grilled butter and its pickled juniper with pride. And it’s this pride that makes Krakas by far the best choice on the island right now. With the role that wine plays at Krakas, forget about driving afterwards and instead arrange one of the few rooms upstairs. Pity those poor souls who pass by the bend in the road, and miss out on this experience...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.