From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Maridalsveien 15, 0178 Oslo
- Phone: +47 21 60 01 01
- Web: restaurant-kontrast.no
- Seats: 68
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 6-10 PM
Contrasts that melt your heart
This is Chef Mikael Svensson’s brainchild. The restaurant balances between modern and traditional and his cooking has one foot in the classical world, and one foot in Scandinavian avant-garde cuisine. We have been following Svensson since he first opened Kontrast in the somewhat restrictive breakfast halls of a hotel on the other side of town, eager to see how his restaurants would develop and how his cooking would evolve. And, slowly, Kontrast is finding its place and growing up to be one of the finest restaurants in the country. Sitting in the beautiful but sparsely decorated dining room, which is furnished with bespoke wooden furniture and contemporary art, our meal starts off with an array of small introductions to Mikael’s playful cooking: cured quail egg yolk in a shell made of quail egg meringue; a small root vegetable and smoked juniper tartlet; a wafer made of porcini topped with foie gras mousse and hazelnut crumble; and braised oxtail with pickled cranberries in a delicate and flavorful beef stock. It’s photogenic and stylish but most importantly, it’s extremely tasty. We are presented with the option of a large or small tasting menu, with the possibility of choosing à la carte as well. It’s a brave move, as most restaurants in this league often choose to streamline the menu as much as possible. We also get to choose between a well-curated wine list, a set of wine pairings and a set of non-alcoholic pairings as well. To our surprise, the non-alcoholic pairings are our favorite: a well made and thoughtful combination of cold-brewed tea and fruit or berry juices combined with different cold extracts, vinegars and syrups. Every juice we receive surpasses the previous one. They are refreshing and complex, with layers of flavours, acidity and depth, and wonderfully matched with the dishes being served. The first course of the evening is raw shrimps with horseradish and a variation on beets, promptly followed by scallops topped with an emulsion made of scallop roe and a scallop dashi. One of the meal’s highlights is the langoustine, almost as large as a lobster and kindly served in three parts: the tail in beurre noisette; in a soup with rose hips; and with fresh, emulsified mushrooms. Unfortunately the wine pairing, a savagnin blanc from the esteemed producer Domaine du Pélican in Jura, does not have the power to match the greatness of the extraordinary langoustine, but this is just a small setback in what is overall a great set of wine pairings, elegantly presented by Marko Radicev – perhaps the nicest sommelier in the business. Kontrast’s strength is in combining great produce and excellent cooking, and one of the most memorable dishes is the potato risotto – a risotto made entirely out of the boring old potato instead of rice. Finished with lardo, cheese from Holtefjell, and black truffles, it’s guaranteed to melt the coldest of hearts. And that is what Mikael’s cooking does to you. We definitely have a crush on Kontrast...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.