From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Sofiesgate 16, 0170 Oslo
- Phone: +47 90 11 50 98
- Web: http://www.kolonialenbislett.no
- Seats: 47
- Opening Hours: Mon–Sat 11 AM–1 AM, Sun 2 PM–1 AM
Big flavours but little elbowroom
Kolonialen Bislett is only a Thorkildsen/Hattestad javelin throw away from the Bislett sports stadium, but there is not much space for physical performance once inside the tiny and often packed restaurant. We sit shoulder-to-shoulder here, which is cosy, and suits the relaxed and laid-back atmosphere, but it can get a bit problematic when you must stop eating to avoid a close encounter with a passing waiter. The menu options are limited: a selection of six starters meant to share followed by a range of three main courses and a couple of cheeses/desserts. All our three starters arrive at the same time, reducing our free table space to zero. They all look so delicious that our expectations rise at once and are mostly met, especially when it comes to the perfectly textured beef tartare with mustard and pine powder topped with crunchy breadcrumbs – it goes straight onto our tartare top-five list. The low-temperature-dried egg yolk with cauliflower, hazelnuts and coriander is another hit, though it lacks a bit of acidity or resistance. The croquettes with anchovies could have been even more fluffy and the fried cabbage leaves a dry sensation on the palate, but the anchovies and the lovage in the mayo give the dish a nice edge. Our own suggestion of white wine is professionally swopped for a very well-suited bottle of Arbois. The wine list is not overly long but well selected, with a little bit of everything – including a glass of Crozes Hermitage which, as promised, nicely accompanies the pork serving with samphire, glazed onions and horseradish crème. The latter dish scores high on the yumminess scale but the last bites are almost too much and could have used something to freshen it all up. The same goes for the carrot ice cream with crème anglaise, coffee and malt syrup, and tarragon oil, but we surrender to the perfect texture of the ice cream and the integration of all the flavours into a delightful whole. If not a gold medal, the Kolonialen performance is at least worth a place on the winner’s stand...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.