From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: St. Olavs plass 2, 0165 Oslo
- Phone: +47 479 78 087
- Web: happolati.no
- Seats: 50
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 4.30–10 PM
Red hot resplendence
Happolati is located in the old grounds of the former fine dining bastion of Ylajali, but it doesn’t need any of this legacy to stand firmly on its own. Since opening in 2016 it has rocketed towards stardom and is now considered one of Oslo’s – and Norway’s – most exciting restaurants. The foundation is Asian cuisine, but from there it grows out wildly in many directions. You’ll find homespun variations on street food traditions such as the Chinese bao bun, but that’s where tradition stops and inspiration takes over. Picture it filled with red king crab and then deep-fried, hitting very spicy and buttery notes simultaneously. It appears again, served on a DIY platter of desserts, caramelized and ready to be stuffed in your mouth with banana-chocolate ice cream, sorbet, popcorn, and fruity dipping sauce. Expect to use your hands quite a lot during the set menus, as this is tactile, messy food – and it’s deeply satisfying both to handle and consume. Whether you’re asked to put on blue plastic gloves to eat shellfish Neanderthal-style, assemble your own veal cheek tacos, or dip deep-fried cod’s tongue in a tart chilli sauce, dining at Happolati never gets boring, old or gimmicky. It is an effective way of engaging the customer, and this playfulness permeates the whole experience. Most important of all, though, is that everything tastes extraordinarily good, and in comparison with many of their peers, the cooks at Happolati do not hold back on the chilli. After perusing their wine selection you’ll be able to name your new favourite Greek or Hungarian varietal, and with a good sake menu to bookend the night, you’re in for a unique treat..
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.