From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Sankt Eriksgatan 67, 113 32 Stockholm
- Phone: +46 8 643 42 22
- Web: grorestaurang.se
- Seats: 20
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 5.30 PM-11 PM
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
Vegetable sanctuary for seasonal fetishists
Gro has long since found its formula for success and now plays mainly safe bets. They serve two four-course menus at SEK 500, one for vegetarians and one for omnivores. Both are declarations of love to the seasons. Each plate is like a family photo album, where seasonal produce is displayed in various stages: roasted seeds, baby shoots, raw pieces, pickled paper-thin slices, poached and broken down into a smooth purée in the blender, and dried until chewy. Serving super-cute frozen baby grapes from the abbey in Vreta before dessert is a confident stroke of genius. At best it is certainly endearing to get to hang out with the different generations, but this can sometimes feel a little predictable in the vegetarian menu. Even better is when Gro abandons the formula and simplifies to really blunt minimalism, like when a hearty slow-cooked lamb neck is accompanied by both raw and baked beets. The pitch-perfect wine choices add their own distinct voice to the meal. Unlike many other restaurants, Gro’s wine pairings are very affordable and a nice introduction to the world of natural wines. When a variation on Jerusalem artichokes, both puréed and raw, with apples and dark-roasted hazelnuts meets a delightful, elegantly oxidized sauvignon blanc from Alexandre Bain, the taste buds start spinning. The crowd consists of quiet-voiced food purists. The service succeeds in creating warmth and a presence in the uningratiating and brutally stripped down tiny, white room where naked bulbs hang on wires from the ceiling. Little Gro continues to be a higher alternative for locavores...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.