From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Per Henrik Lings Alle 4, 8., 2100 Copenhagen
- Phone: +45 69 96 00 20
- Web: geranium.dk
- Seats: 40
- Opening Hours: Wed 6:30 PM-9 PM, Thu-Sat 1 PM-9 PM, Closed Sun-Tue
Delectably green and delicate details
It takes a special disposition to continuously improve something year after year that, in eyes of most people, is already perfect. Geranium’s Chef Rasmus Kofoed is just such a person, as evidenced in the three sparkling Bocuse d’Or statues adorning the restaurant’s lounge. The menu testifies to this, too, with classics that have been further honed and new dishes that are refined to the smallest detail. Stylistically speaking, the interior of Geranium provides a comfortable setting for a meal where guests can enjoy every aspect of the dining experience, overseen by restaurant manager and all-encompassing host Søren Ledet. The thick tablecloths stretch down to the squeak-free floor, while the comfortably upholstered Danish design chairs offer views of either the open kitchen or the treetops of adjacent Fælledparken, Copenhagen’s largest city park. The service does not leave anything to chance, as waiters hover around the tables like elegant dancers to the sounds of classical music. The mere serving of a gin and tonic is a minor work of art involving an ice cube mould, Danish gin from Klelund, homemade sea buckthorn juice and a thorough explanation from the talented Norwegian sommelier. Lobster in fermented milk with carrot and sea buckthorn is a smooth and gentle start. The complexity and sheer deliciousness of tomato water with ham fat and aromatic herbs proves that simple ingredients can also push the culinary altimeter to uncharted heights. The dish called “Razor clams” is actually composed of thin wheat shells filled with lumpfish roe and sour cream; a crisp and creamy mouthful. The charred potato – served under a glass dome filled with smoke – is a fun déjà vu harking back to childhood camping trips. Trout masquerading as green “stones” covered with dill gelée rounds out the parade of signature snacks, all of which are just a touch sharper and on point than the last time we dined here. The autolytic glass of 2009 blanc de blancs champagne from Larmandier-Bernier proves a good pairing with the luscious snacks. Its biodynamic roots and clean style are emblematic of the wine menu, which features carefully crafted wines, but without the unconventional bent so common in the world of natural wines. The pairings are virtuosic, such as a 2015 alvarinho from Anselmo Mendes in Vinho Verde, whose tight acidity and fruitiness is in perfect tandem with Kofoed’s artistic mosaic of hake rolled in parsley ash. The fish is served like a jigsaw puzzle with Carelian caviar and topped with a sauce split with parsley oil. The dish caters to the eye as much as the palate. The oil is made from parsley stems and the dish has a delicious crunch from the fish’s scales. The no-waste approach recurs in subsequent dishes, including a serving of perfectly fried scallop with a silky thin tuile of roe – the rest of the roe is used in the sauce. This is just one of the many gems preceding the main course, a sweet and delicate Jerusalem artichoke with herbs and a sauce made from duck feet. It is a pleasant surprise to be served an entire menu without a meat-centric dish, yet that still has such intense flavour from beginning to end. It exudes elegance and acumen. After four deserts and a total of 15 courses we retire to the lounge for rum, petits fours and one more show in the form of hand-brewed espresso. At Geranium, Kofoed and Ledet have found an extra gear, and they continue to fine-tune microscopic imperfections that make Geranium sparkle in its richness of detail and dedication...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.