From the White Guide Nordic 2018:

Gastromé

Very Fine Level 71
Food rating:30/40Service rating:14/20
Chambre separéeWheelchair accessVegetarian dishes
  • Address: Rosensgade 28, 8000 Aarhus
  • Phone: +45 28 78 16 17
  • Web: gastrome.dk
  • Seats: 40
  • Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 6 PM-12 midnight, Closed Sun-Mon

Country kitchen with flourishes

“A gourmet country kitchen” reads the introduction to Søren Jakobsen and Villiam Jørgensen’s restaurant in Aarhus. The produce featured in the kitchen’s exquisitely crafted cuisine is thoroughly seasonal, including appearances by apple, beetroot, and parsley root and the evening is a parade of beautifully arranged works of art. The menu is composed as a series of snacks. Some are classics, such as a cone filled with smoked cheese and Kalix bleak roe, while the oyster is right on target with a fresh foam of citrus confit and bonito butter. The staff skilfully and precisely navigate through the vocabulary associated with the orchestrated meal, and at times they draw on help from the kitchen. Gastromé is strongest in its seafood and vegetable dishes, while their pot bread is irresistibly alluring alongside a browned butter whipped with crispy bits of chicken skin. Lobster consommé with fresh lobster-filled pasta, poached quail egg and an attractive green lace of powdered herbs is one of the evening’s highlights, served with a balanced 2014 Jura wine, L'Etoile from Domaine Montbourgeau, whose sherry-like oxidised taste is an adroit pairing with the bittersweet lobster. The precisely fried zander is nicely composed with parsley root, fennel, cress and a foam of bakskuld (salted and smoked witch flounder). But the richness, salt and smoke of this excellent local speciality from Fanø lacks acidity, a deficiency that the fresh sauvignon blanc from Philippe Gilbert fails to rectify. The meat dishes pay homage to off cuts, but the pork cheeks are a tad dry in combination with boiled barley grains, mustard and truffle, ultimately comprising too many flavours at once. The dry-aged beef with beetroot in a variety of textures suffers from the same degree of hyperbole. The desserts offer a respite with the return to lighter fare full of sweetness and acidity: passion fruit, apple, pear, lemon, yoghurt and tarragon. In total, the meal is an array of excellent servings, ambition and daring from the kitchen. Though at times the dishes collapse under the weight of myriad flavours, the aesthetic presentation is consistently exceptional...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

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