From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
Gallery Restaurant Hotel Holt
- Address: Bergstadastraeti 37, 101 Reykjavik
- Phone: +354 552 5700
- Web: holt.is/english/dine/gallery-restaurant/
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 12-2 PM, 6-10:30 PM
Where the garnishes match like a tie to a suit
It’s a creative atmosphere at Gallery Restaurant, with its dark mahogany ceilings and classic interior with artwork from Hotel Holt’s unique Icelandic art collection on the walls. This mixture of classic aesthetics and bold innovation is reflected in the grandiose wine menu filled with classic as well as themed wines, which perfectly complement Chef Friðgeir Ingi Eiríksson’s successful Latin-Icelandic melting pot. With more than 4,000 bottles in the cellar, this is the place to go in Iceland if you are a lover of rare and fine wines and spirits. From the moment we enter the room, we are engulfed by the classy yet cosy atmosphere. On the impeccably set round table, the napkin holder quotes the father of modern French cuisine, Fernand Point: “Garnishes must be matched like a tie to a suit”. Then we get our first impression of the kitchen with creamy homemade butter and crisp, airy sourdough bread. The first serving is a daring and delectable langoustine soup that combines fresh langoustine with roasted white chocolate cream – a delightful signature course. It tickles our senses when perfectly paired with a 2012 Alsace Pfaffenheim pinot gris. We are intrigued when a rich 2013 Sauternes complements the exotic fruit flavours of the crisp and tender seared foie gras accompanied by almonds and apricot. As a cold appetizer, we recommend the veal tartare with sour cream, bacon and pickled mushrooms. Not a traditional minced meat serving, it is composed instead out of delightfully tasty cubes of fresh veal and decorated with brawn (aka., head cheese). The homemade tagliatelle with Italian truffles, truffle butter and Parmesan cheese is a well-composed but rather traditional main course, whereas the Icelandic reindeer with Italian truffles and braised celeriac in Madeira with white asparagus and blueberry sauce really showcases the kitchen’s creative approach to combining flavours from the Latin and Icelandic kitchens. The tender meat is garnished with a lot of decorative finesses, such as purple lichen, fresh enoki mushrooms, plenty of truffle shavings and a rich demi-glace – and it all tastes delicious together. The chocolate and tonka bean crème brûlée with characteristic smoky perfume notes from the beans, served with creamy chocolate and raspberry sorbets, completes the meal and highlights how the kitchen fully lives up to the quote on the napkin holder...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.