From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Østergade 1, Laurbjerg, 8870 Langå
- Phone: +45 86 46 83 88
- Web: frularsen.dk
- Seats: 45
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 12 noon-2 PM, 6 PM-10 PM, Closed Mon-Sun
Creative food in an old-school setting
Since Chef Tommy Friis and his wife Birgitte took over Fru Larsen in 2012, they have maintained a very high culinary level. Don’t be fooled by the traditional and stuffy-but-cosy décor of the dining room, this kitchen elegantly combines equal parts classic techniques and modern experimentation ensuring that a meal here is never boring. A miniature bowl of delectable and comforting bacon broth with an edible wrap filled with potato and lovage is a great start, and the tartare of dry-aged beef with croutons and capers is both the perfect temperature and deeply flavourful. The first dish, halibut, is served raw and still (a bit overly) frozen atop an oyster cream, cucumber and white asparagus. An herb jus is sprayed over the dish, adding colour along with herbaceous notes that blend subtly with the aptly paired albarino from Rias Baixas. A salt-baked slice of white cabbage is the base of the next serving. The cabbage, which still retains some bite, is doused in a rich, lemony beurre blanc and topped with dried and fresh Romø shrimps and crispy chicken skin. The wines are well paired throughout the menu, although one could argue that slightly more daring choices would have lifted this creative kitchen’s flavours even higher. Then again, it’s hard to whine too much when the earthy, iron notes of a perfectly cooked pigeon breast mingle with the classy Bourgogne from Liger-Belair. Venison from red deer comes wrapped in a thin mushroom gel “package”. It’s at the centre of a dish that contains, according to the menu, a “sauce mysterie” whose spices keep us guessing. We settle for “gingerbread” to describe the warm, Christmassy flavours that suit the sweetness of the sauce, which is a tad too sweet for the Rosso di Montalcino, but the combo pulls off the pairing thanks to the venison’s wild, gamey aromas. A solid piece of advice at Fru Larsen is to save some space for dessert (or a lot of space if you also plan to indulge in the cheese selection). The spectacular ending of the meal comes in as a perfect sphere that we knock open with our spoons. It falls apart like an eggshell revealing a kefir ice cream and shavings of white chocolate with hempseeds and pumpkinseeds. Together with tangy sea buckthorn and earthy chamomile dust, the combination is a wonder of balance, and it’s utterly delicious...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.