From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Stadsgårdshamnen 22, 116 45 Stockholm
- Phone: +46 8 509 00 530
- Web: fotografiska.eu/mat-noje/restaurangen
- Seats: 92
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 11.30 AM-2 PM, 5 PM-11 PM
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
Sustainable all the way
If the food at Fotografiska weren’t so full to the brim of personality and soul, we would be tempted to think that the place was dreamed up by an advanced think tank with the task of condensing all of the current food trends into a single format. But thanks to the confident flavours and the focus on ingredients, the concept of “medium-sized plant dishes”, with clear ambitions for zero food waste, feels anything but contrived. And this year, the service staff have also stepped up and contribute to the experience, something that has previously been a bit uneven up here in the beautiful space with spectacular views over Stockholm. Four dishes per person are recommended – and don’t worry whether or not plants alone will satisfy you. A few “sides” in the form of meat or fish are a great way to take the animal protein out of focus while maintaining a little lifeline to a more traditional restaurant meal – but it is hard to imagine that guests will miss the meat after four vegetable dishes. The best is the delicious little tagliatelle made from beetroot and sea spaghetti algae topped with a Sanda egg yolk, Parmesan cheese and liquoricey tarragon. Hmm, no black pepper? We have just enough time to wonder, before the first sip of the amphora-aged natural wine, a blend of cabernet sauvignon and trepat, hits our tongues and gives the dish the peppery smack it screams for. A baked onion, lovingly burnt around the edges, is pepped up by truffles and rich mushroom cream – and gets textural juxtaposition from fried Jerusalem artichoke. A delicious slow-baked carrot plays the lead role in a composition with coriander seed, almond potato purée and basil and still we don’t miss the meat. But when the perfectly baked char and small, intensely flavoured wild venison tenderloin makes its entrance our hearts are gladdened – for the subtle display of craft in letting fine ingredients speak for themselves. Sea buckthorn and carrot we have seen before. Or so we thought. Then we are floored by the dessert, an ice cream made from boiled cocoa bean husks (“it’s white but tastes dark”, the waitress aptly notes) paired with almost raw carrot coins, crushed meringue, cacao nibs, super sour and piquant sea buckthorn berries and something as fun as a meadowsweet granité. The dessert is built as much on texture as taste – it is chewy, creamy and crunchy across the board – and unlike many one-dimensionally sweet desserts, it is interesting to the last bite...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.