From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
Daniel Berlin Krog i Skåne Tranås
- Address: Diligensvägen 21, 273 92 Skåne Tranås
- Phone: +46 417 203 00
- Web: danielberlin.se
- Seats: 14
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 5.30 PM-12 midnight.Closed Christmas, New Years and 8 weeks in the summer
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
Straight from the heart
We’re pretty sure that the general health of the Swedish populace would improve if doctors could prescribe visits to Daniel Berlin. The experience has been fine-tuned even more this year and, without sacrificing the friendly and familiar hospitality, they have sneaked in several small attractive service elements. The outdoor pause, for example, has been expanded to a small buffet around fire baskets and kerosene lamps where the cooks feed us small flavour-packed Brussels sprouts from a stalk just taken out of the garden and sweet chestnut pancakes with leeks and ramson capers. But we are getting ahead of ourselves. After the welcome at the farm by the Berlin clan, Sweden’s most service-minded restaurant manager Ellinor Lindblom kicks off the show at 18:30 sharp. Come on time, because everyone eats in the same sitting. The cavalcade of snacks is brilliant, with a mix of new and old hits. The thin wafer with wildfowl liver mousse and its subtle cinnamon dusting is still one of the yummiest things that has been served in Swedish restaurant history. But there are also new favourites like “the lobster sandwich” topped with dried umami-intense lobster bullion; the little tribute to Skåne in the form of a yeasted pancake with vinegar pork and an icy, fast-melting disk of frozen horseradish cream; and the bright green sorbet egg made from frozen Aroma apples and wild sorrel. The bread serving proves that Berlin’s crew knows when to make things complicated and when to respect simplicity. The bowls contain goat and cow’s milk butter from Vilhelmsdal. No more, no less. But what butter! We could live for a week on that butter and the plump, honey-sweet, four-grain bread. The traditional homage to the artist of the season (Lena Nilsson with underwater-inspired art) is a composition of raw shrimp, tangled seaweed, beets, and pressed rhubarb, eerily well balanced with an intense seafood sweetness, with dill oil to bind the dish together. The charcoal-grilled celeriac with its broth made from Prästost cheese is still here, but returning visitors get a variation in which the same root vegetable is served as a beautiful mille-feuille with opal plums, and smoked wild boar jus. The cod is prepared to iridescent perfection and served with a slightly smoky, frothy butter sauce, onion, and apple. Simple. Obvious. Intelligent. And terribly good. After the break, there’s laughter and fraternization (how often do you get to talk with your fellow diners at top restaurants?), and the wild duck comes in. Heart, breast, fillet, and fried tongue. It comes with a few dabs of slightly different sauces, but they feel almost superfluous once we sink our teeth into the bird. Berlin has mastered game like no one else. The meat is cooked with extreme precision in order to maximise the bird’s deep, muted, iron flavours. The desserts are worth a chapter of their own. First a lukewarm cream of Amandine potatoes is paired with a tart chokeberry sorbet and ground elder oil. An unlikely smash hit. Less unpredictable, but oh-so-irresistible is the combo of ice cream, salty meringue and rosemary caramel. Then it’s off to mother Berlin’s greenhouse where the Kenyan coffee beans are first pressed with the Aero Press and then served with a thin tuile of local bean-to-bar chocolate – just as acidic and intense as the coffee. The second cup is much milder, V60-brewed with the same beans – ingenious. It is served with a nourishing and comforting, warm rosehip soup and ice cream poetically flavoured with whitebeam buds...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.