From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Borgergade 16, 1300 Copenhagen
- Phone: +45 36 16 30 00
- Web: restaurant-clou.dk
- Seats: 60
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 6 PM-10 PM
Craftsmanship with a personal touch
Jonathan Berntsen has a style all his own in the upper echelons of gastronomy, manifest in everything from the bird-studded wallpaper to alternative interpretations of classic dishes that buck the modern trend and pursue sweetness and richness over acidity and umami. Thanks to Berntsen’s ingenious craftsmanship and uncompromising professionalism, our meal is a memorable and refreshing contrast to the prevailing Nordic winds. The service adheres to all of the classic virtues. An army of tuxedoed waiters and chefs appears with every dish, providing thorough explanations of the wine pairings and their insightful balancing of flavours. However, the alcohol content of the evening’s wines seems somewhat extreme given the refined menu. Sherry, limoncello and Pineau des Charentes in the same menu is a bit over the top, especially when we are also treated to an excellent 2002 Wintzenheim gewurztraminer from Zind-Humbrecht in Alsace, whose age and golden colour practically require a knife and fork. The cuisine, on the other hand, combines assertive sweetness and playfulness, weaving tales of the culinary traditions of Denmark’s historic bourgeoisie, such as the clever reinterpretation of the Danish classic, foreloren skildpadde (“mock-turtle soup”), traditionally a pork and fish ragout served with boiled eggs. This dish features four precise small elements in a veal broth with “turtle flavour”: corned veal tongue with foie gras, a fried fish ball, a marbled quail egg and a crisp and hearty croquette with lamb’s brain. Berntsen cannot resist playing with form and he loves technical challenges, like when he serves razor clams with a good spoonful of Oscietra caviar under a net of crispy thin stripes of pressed, dried and sweetened caviar. Despite the almost malty taste of the caviar net, the dish is fresh and invigorating. The kitchen’s experiments include combinations of veal tail and smoked lardo as the filling in a squid dressed in olives, with a side of black bean cassoulet, the tentacles of the squid and a crisp wheat chip blackened with squid ink. Your attention is required in order to understand and interpret the dishes, but the reward is a one-of-a-kind experience you’ll not soon forget. The desserts further underpin the chef’s approach, with a white and airy intro of lime, banana and yoghurt, followed by a powerful finale of re-interpreted Crêpe Suzette, which could have been fresher and more acidic. But Berntsen has his characteristic style and he upholds it with an elegance that proves how, despite differences in taste, genius is something we can all agree on...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.