From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Skovveien 15, 0257 Oslo
- Phone: +47 41 26 01 44
- Web: bokbacka.no
- Seats: 50
- Opening Hours: Tue-Sat 5 PM-1 AM (kitchen closes at 9:30 PM).
This small restaurant on the western side of Oslo, on a street where boutiques are few, small and expensive, is no longer the new kid on the block. It’s now a neighbourhood cornerstone, a place where the shopkeepers can guide their customers when they are done selecting bags and blazers of brands only known to holders of black credit cards. The dining room and kitchen are almost naked in their minimalism, decorated sparsely with a couple of erotic paintings. In the basement, where the restrooms are, someone had the idea of incorporating a nature theme. The wallpaper depicts a vast forest and the sound of birdsong spills out of the speakers; we appreciate their sense of humor. The dinner kicks off with an actual bonsai tree surrounded by soil made out of cream cheese and toasted rye crumble, topped with fried moss, fresh spring radishes and small mushrooms. It’s a tribute to spring, and all that green that promises to come with it, freshly produced by their beloved farmer Finn. Paired with a welcome British take on the sparkling traditions of Champagne, the meal is off to a good start. An oyster emulsion with fresh thin cauliflower shavings and cauliflower purée takes us from the earthy field down to the seashore. Just recently back from a trip to the United States, Chef Simon Weinberg shares with us his take on the most American dish of all: fried chicken. The serving is called “Yoda’s Fried Chicken” and is a tribute to his dog. A roulade of deboned chicken leg is filled with chicken liver, then deep-fried and served in a “YFC” take-away box together with embers of spruce. An emulsion of young spruce shoots as a dip hits the spot and gives the juicy, tender chicken a foresty feel. Inspiration from America is also detectable in the meat dish. The beef is blackened before it is cooked sous vide for 24 hours and served with a juniper cream broken with a jus made from the grill drippings. An ice cream made from milk steeped in rosemary melts alongside the meat and gives it all a sweet and tangy taste. The ending comes in the form of a fresh milk ice cream with beetroot and tarragon. It’s not the sweetest of desserts but nicely sums up the playfulness of the kitchen. The coffee comes from a small roaster in the maître ’d’s hometown of Aarhus. Bokbacka keeps confidently evolving in its own direction and is a great place to visit when you find yourself in dire need of a new experience...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.