From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Norra hamngatan 10, 411 14 Gothenburg
- Phone: +46 31 13 80 18
- Web: bhoga.se
- Seats: 35
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sat 6 PM-01 AM
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
Brave, modern and New Nordic
Light charcoal and grays. Wood and wool. The interior got a redesign in 2015 and breathes Scandinavian. It plays well with the New Nordic cooking that Niclas Yngvesson and Gustav Knutsson have become known for. If restaurants were measured in dog years, Bhoga would be about 35 by now and in its prime, and that would explain the maturity, self-assurance, creativity and courage that characterise the experience. Everything they touch gets turned and twisted around, tried and tested, and all with a rare sense of calm and confidence. Diners can choose the menu of five courses, or expand it to seven or nine, all beautifully presented on rough, elegant ceramics. The initial brown-buttery pumpkin tartlet and corresponding pumpkin broth with a vinegar note makes you forget the squash’s sugary-sweet Halloween associations. A fino sherry is a nice pairing, but so is the recommended Bellini cocktail, which has been delicately showered in absinthe. A scallop comes with an unusual and lovely seared exterior and rests in a buttery Ingrid Marie apple broth seasoned with thyme. Those who like the plant kingdom are in luck, for they use animals more like a seasoning here. One example is the perfectly round disc of celeriac confidently seared and topped with yogurt and crushed crunchy chicken skin – but it’s the fresh tarragon leaves that add to the simultaneous feeling of over-indulgence and elegance. So lovely! The mushroom dish is a bit like Bhoga personified: a porcini cream forms a luxurious cushion for the fungi of the year, the king oyster mushroom, lightly pan-fried, flanked by opposition in the form of crunchy buckwheat and raw mushroom slices. Beside it lies a pool of emulsified cream ale, topped with rose hip powder. The contrasts are sublime – in texture, flavour and appearance. It’s hard to say what we like most, the idea or the taste. On the whole, everything related to beer here is done well, from the selection to the matching, to the knowledge and enthusiasm. Those who choose the beer pairings get a journey through time and space. The wines are natural and biodynamic. Thoughtful non-alcoholic pairings are also available. A Muscovy duck (a native Swedish breed) attractively plated on a cream of fermented cherries is the only real meat dish. It comes with a flurry of zealously groomed Brussels sprout leaves and on the side, a crispy rye bun with a hint of fermented garlic. It’s the evening’s hit combo. Then comes cheese and wine. A smooth cream of Anno 1225 cheese from Almnäs topped with a ruffle of grated chervil makes the taste buds turn somersaults with a 13-year-old auslese riesling. The tempo is high without ever feeling stressed. The service is relaxed and charming. Each serving is beautiful and balanced. We get our Ethiopian coffee served in wine glasses, and why not? At Bhoga, anything goes...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.