From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Kyrkogatan 31, 411 08 Göteborg
- Phone: +46 31‑711 00 27
- Web: barcentro.se
- Seats: 14
- Directions: See Google Map underneath
Tiny restaurant with a big heart
During the daytime tiny Bar Centro serves coffee. In the evenings, food and natural wines. The room is actually a bit too crowded, the tiled walls cold and the chairs somewhat harsh. But the cosiness factor is high regardless. On one glass wall stands the cheese menu, sloppily written with the associated numbers and a map so one can see where the goodies come from. We order the four-course dinner with the accompanying wine pairings. The place was previously run by the acclaimed duo, Tomas Reivinger and David Lilja Lundin, who have since left on a Stockholm adventure. Oskar Ahlvin and Harry Wong, who worked here even then, have now taken over. What a stroke of luck! The service is simple, honest, and smart, and so is the food. The quickly seared gem lettuce with oyster sauce and toasted almonds makes the strongest impression. “If I could just eat one dish for the rest of my life it would be this”, cries the head of our table with his mouth full of crisp lettuce and buttery, sea-flavoured sauce. We ask for the recipe for the sauce and receive it. Thanks, Chef Harry! The baked onion with teriyaki sauce and homemade fake truffle is fun. Sure, mushrooms, almonds, black sesame seeds and butter tastes kind of like truffles. Oskar delivers one wine after another and they all happily dance with the dishes. The 1998 aged riesling from Mosel is wonderful with our miso parfait and pear compote. There are no “wet basement” or oxidized notes here (as some wine experts warn when it comes to natural wines). Imagine being able to enjoy such an imaginative and honest, well-made meal on an ordinary Thursday evening...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.