From the White Guide Nordic 2018:


Very Fine Level 73
Food rating:31/40
Bar menuVegetarian dishesHjärtekrogAmerican Express

Slow-cooked and slow-paced

You should treat yourself to a dinner menu at the always-packed hipster hole-in-the-wall all the way down on Roslagsgatan. Agrikultur has certainly found its home in the flavours, and the food is delicious, as it only can be from cooking on low heat and with lots of love. For there are happy cooks in this kitchen, and it’s not just a marketing ploy – it shows in the atmosphere. Sure, it can feel a little pretentious when Philip Fastén comes lugging in their firewood for the stove, but the grin on his face is far from affected. The presentations could easily be described as “heaps of food” – but who cares when it tastes this good? Like the comforting broth of over-night-roasted cabbage that kicks off the meal. It is poured from a chipped enamel coffee pot over a potato foam and Gotland truffles. What more could you ask for on a cold November night? The trout dish closely resembles a salad with raw, tender kale and smashed potatoes. “I’m going to splash some sauce over it”, says the chef as he swirls a delightful liaison sauce over the top, flecked with popping trout roe. For wine recommendations beyond "What do you like?" you must practically pester the staff, and this is where the relaxed philosophy goes a little overboard, because it’s difficult to judge from the menu what flavours might be hiding in the dishes. Like the umami-intense moose shank with caramelised beets, goat's cheese, black currants and a generous sauce. It’s only this good when, in Chef Fastén’s own words, “you have stopped making food to impress people”. Hats off to that...

To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.

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