From the White Guide Nordic 2018:
- Address: Oyggjarvegur 45, FO 100 Tórshavn
- Phone: +298 33 30 00
- Web: aarstova.fo
- Seats: 50
- Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 5:30 PM-12 midnight
Masters of lamb
Guests sit rather tightly packed in the lively restaurant, where the menu and drinks are presented elegantly in bound books, reflecting the great effort and attention dedicated to ensuring a memorable dining experience. The book about the dishes also reveals the kitchen’s affinity for local ingredients, while the wine book features profiles of the curated winemakers. The five-course menu begins with an ultra-tender lamb carpaccio with fresh acidic rhubarb that goes nicely with an elegant hazelnut cream and crisp shredded hazelnut. The delicate lobster bisque with the familiar intense flavour of the crustacean’s rich sweetness contains fresh langoustine tails with the taste of the sea, crème fraîche and chive oil, and is paired perfectly with a crisp and mineral riesling 2014 from the Alsace winemaker Leon Beyer. Arriving next on attractively arranged plates is lamb shoulder on the bone, cooked for twelve hours in Carls Special beer at 90°C and then roasted in the oven for one hour at 200°C. The coarse-fibred, juicy and rich meat is served with poached egg, celeriac purée, root vegetables and a delicate fatty lamb jus. The next serving offers a choice between cod or lamb loin. The flavour of the lamb fully justifies the fact that, even here i Tórshavn, Faroese lamb is more highly prized than that from New Zealand. The freshly roasted pink meat has exquisite structure and taste, with the fine accompaniment of small new potatoes in their skins, blanched herbs and jus. A range of dessert options are offered for the finale. We sample a rhubarb compote with roasted nuts and whipped cream, which is a bit tame. But the well-executed liquorice ice cream served with a brownie has pure anise notes to balance the cocoa flavour, and is adroitly paired with a characteristically oaky and creamy sweet Ximénez-Spínola sherry...
To read the whole review go to Buy The White Guide Nordic 2018.